Winter has yet to return or even start on the central coast. The waves on the other hand have been winter size so it must be storming somewhere. On the way into work on Wednesday I could see that the swell was exceptionally large. Kellen Keene came by in the afternoon with some video he shot from the water out in front in the mid morning. Chad Jackson and Van Curaza were the only takers on the session. Chad making the big time landing a photo sequence on Surfline. You can see Kellen swimming in the foreground in the final frames. This slab breaks over a 1/4 mile from the beach!
Trail condition were pretty good. I coaxed Dick into trying to rip a favorite corner for the cam.
You can see that this was not going to turn out good. On the wrong side of the lip and centrifugal force is already standing him up and sending him straight into the sage bush.
Boosted!! Damn it Buzz! I knew it was a bad idea to try and session this cold on the uphill leg of the loop! hey! watch out for my bike! hey! don’t park it on the exit of the turn! Hey!…blah blah blah. We’re still friends :-)